I love Loctite! Help Needed!!

Started by Herezja, February 05, 2011, 08:02:31 PM

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Herezja

So, long story short, I have come to the inevitable conclusion that I need a new front driveshaft. I am getting ready to order one and I went out to the garage this morning to pull my current one and to take measurements. Figured since I was ordering a new one, why not just go ahead and pull the old one off while I was out there before I end up with serious issues if the current shaft just fails completely, right? WRONG!

The bolts at the axle, although blue Loctite-ed, came off without a problem. I had a good angle at them and they were easy to get to. 2 minutes and they were off. The bolts at the transfer case were a new issue altogether. After bending myself into some interesting circus contortionist positions, I was able to get a nice little 5/16" socket onto the first bolt behind the CV joint and with a little doing, finally broke it loose and got it out....3 more to go. I examined the bolt for any thread mishaps and noticed yellow Loctite....great! After messing with the next 3 bolts for 2 hours and not getting them to budge what-so-ever, I managed to strip two of the heads, so they're nice and round now, and I bent a 5/16" box end wrench to a 90 degree angle (literally).  ::trout::  After continuing to try and come up with ideas of how to get these Loctited bolts out without being able to see what I am doing, not being able to get much pressure on them because of the confined space, and not being able to get a wrench or socket to bite on them anymore, I finally gave up and put the 5 bolts that I managed to get out back in.  :evil:

So my big questions follow:

1) Why is the Jeep manufacturing plant so obsessed with using Loctite on everything?? Seriously...are they personally trying to piss me off?

2) How much do the Jeep design engineers make to come up with goofy ideas like putting the bolts for the front driveshaft back behind the CV joint in the most impossible place to get to and in such a confined area that you can hardly even fit a wrench in there...let alone get a big enough wrench on the bolts for enough torque to break free yellow Loctited 5/16" bolts.

3) Should I sue for a new 5/16" combination wrench?

4) Does anyone have an amazing idea on how I can get these rounded bolts out now? I've tried smaller combo wrenches and sockets, tried some vise grips, etc. without any luck.

5) Does anyone feel brave enough to give me a hand in getting these bolts out and getting the new driveshaft installed once it arrives?

I am so frustrated at this point that I am considering just taking it to a shop once the new shaft arrives and letting them deal with it. I just hate when things like this beat me.  :evil:

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

 ::ouch::

Nosilla

#1
you could maybe tighten the bolts till they break. Have a nut welded to the heads to use another wrench.

Herezja

#2
Quote from: "Nosilla"you could maybe tighten the bolts till they break. Have a nut welded to the heads to use another wrench.

I thought about that, but I don't think there's enough access to get in there to weld nuts on. Plus you wouldn't be able to see to weld them.

I was thinking if I could maneuver vise grips in there well enough to get a good enough grip, that might work to turn them. I tried it once, but am going to give it another try when I am not so frustrated and can get a fresh perspective on this fiasco.

I've also thought about cutting the bolt heads off with a Dremmel or something small enough to get in there. Unfortunately, I think the threads of the bolts would keep the CV from sliding away from the CV yolk at the transfer case. Maybe drilling them out, but I don't think I could fit a drill motor in there.

I can pull out the Ujoint retaining rings and probably wiggle the shaft out from the CV that way, but that won't solve the problem of removing the CV from the yoke at the transfer case. It might give me a little more room to maneuver, though, without trying to work around the driveshaft.

Nosilla

#3
support the tail of the transfer case and drop the skid plate then you will be able to see that you are doing without bending into a pretzel. If you cut the heads off and removed the shaft at the axle you would be able to pull it out that way also.......it would take awhile with a dremel thought but it would get it done at least.

Herezja

#4
Quote from: "Nosilla"support the tail of the transfer case and drop the skid plate then you will be able to see that you are doing without bending into a pretzel. If you cut the heads off and removed the shaft at the axle you would be able to pull it out that way also.......it would take awhile with a dremel thought but it would get it done at least.

Funny you should say that....I was laying in bed last night thinking about dropping the skid plate. Then I should at least be able to get a cut off wheel in there or something.

Thanks for the ideas. Gonna put this one into effect probably tomorrow.

Nosilla

#5
::trout::

Herezja

#6
Quote from: "Nosilla"::trout::

Yeah yeah yeah....I know.  ::ouch::

Paul Hittie

#7
For future reference, I have not met a color/variety of LocTite that is heat-resistant.  Sometimes warm will do it, sometimes you need bubbly to get it loose, but heat usually does the trick.
When you stumble in life, Make it Part of Your Dance

Herezja

#8
1330 is the front driveshaft model for a 2004 Rubicon, right?? Just making sure before I order.

Thanks!

jeepfan1974

#9
locktight is designed to dissolve when you apply a torch to the bolts
Let\'s go wheeling!

Herezja

#10
So I bought a pen torch (that heats to over 2000 degrees) and a Gator socket this weekend. So with those and some of the tools I already have, I should be able to get these bolts off when the new shaft arrives. Stay tuned for the new adventures!

ouchman

#11
good luck, and where you getting your front shaft? i might need one.
A computer once beat me at chess, but it was no match for me at kick boxing.


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Herezja

#12
Quote from: "ouchman"good luck, and where you getting your front shaft? i might need one.

Tatton Driveshaft...they custom built me one with greasable joints and using Spicer parts for $250/free shipping. Not a bad deal. It just arrived last night. It's no Tom Woods shaft, but it is BY FAR an improvement overstock and very well made. And so far is well worth the price. They say they are trail tested, but we will see if it can withstand my "trail testing"  :P

longarm

#13
Quote from: "jeepfan1974"locktight is designed to dissolve when you apply a torch to the bolts

That's exactly what I was thinking. Heat, PB Blaster, heat, PB Blaster, ect....  That's how I got my shocks off.  After I snapped the first bolt off and had to drill it out.....  I was swating pretty bad using that torch to loosen up that shock bolt right next to the gas tank though.   :shock:   Let's just say I got a lot closer to God while changing my shocks.   :mrgreen:
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