Engine Swappage

Started by Yager, June 10, 2008, 12:02:10 PM

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Yager

Alright, I need a bit of elaboration that my hanes manual wont give..

I am changing all the accessories off my 95 blown engine onto a 93 good engine. Two things that are giving me an issue is the Distributer and the Harmonic Balancer. I know I need a puller for the balancer, but I'm wondering, will removing it mess up the timing no the engine. I don't think it will, but I just wanted to double check. Aaaand, I think it might be easier to just switch the whole timing belt case, rather than trying to pull the balancer, but can that be done, or is the balancer tied into the lower crank and needs to be removed anyway?

As for the distributer, I think I need to set the number 1 piston to top dead center, where it would fire, then drop the distributer so the rotar points at cyl one on my cap, easy right?

Does all this sound pretty good, or am I missing things here?
04 Cherokee Laredo, 95 Wrangler S
mailto:Jammy11b@Gmail.com\">mailto:Jammy11b@Gmail.com

Yager

#1
Oh, and just for some clutch support. I can use my current plates with any clutch discs that fit, right? Any recommendations for a new clutch?
04 Cherokee Laredo, 95 Wrangler S
mailto:Jammy11b@Gmail.com\">mailto:Jammy11b@Gmail.com

Mudviper

#2
What engine are you working on? I don't know of any Jeeps that have a timing belt. I believe they use a chain.

removing the balancer will not effect the timing since they are keyed to the crankshaft and there is only one way on and off, but if you start messing with the camshaft gears and timing belt/chain, then you have to watch how you put them back together.

You have the right idea with the distributor, but make sure you have the right piston as your number one. Again I am not sure what engine you are working on and I have seen the timing set up differntly on various engines

Yager

#3
I don't know if it's chain or belt, so you're probably right. it's a 93 and a 95 YJ 2.5L
04 Cherokee Laredo, 95 Wrangler S
mailto:Jammy11b@Gmail.com\">mailto:Jammy11b@Gmail.com

TechJeeper

#4
The 2.5L Distrubtor is really REALLY easy!  Its either dead on, or 180* off!  There are only 2 possible positions for the distrubtor to drop all the way down. w00t w00t, hope that helps ya out.

Yager

#5
Right, but either way the crank has to be in the right position, putting the number one cyl at Top Dead Center, right?
04 Cherokee Laredo, 95 Wrangler S
mailto:Jammy11b@Gmail.com\">mailto:Jammy11b@Gmail.com

NewRide

#6
Remember there is a compression stroke and an exhaust stroke. So even if you are at top dead center you could be off a stroke ... { story of my life } best way is to have someone turn it over a few time and either hold your finger or a rag over the spark plug hole and wait till you feel it compressing . You can then go from there at least this way you know what stroke you are on.  ::gay::
"I\'m all in favor of keeping dangerous weapons out of the hands of fools. Let\'s start with typewriters."
   - Frank Lloyd Wright (1868-1959)

Yager

#7
Ah, thanks, I just talked to my dad in email about that like five minutes ago.

I'll see if I can get it. If I can't I'll blame all of you.
04 Cherokee Laredo, 95 Wrangler S
mailto:Jammy11b@Gmail.com\">mailto:Jammy11b@Gmail.com

Yager

#8
Okay, so I pulled the oil pan and the valve cover off the engine I took out of the YJ... The top end was COVERED with black sludge.. So much so, that I had to scrape it off the inside of the valve cover just to use it on the other engine.. The bottom end looked fine, the piston walls were clean and shiney, and I couldn't find any visible damage to them. No shavings in the filter screen... but I did find something like pebbles in the bottom of the oil pan.. like black oil rocks or something.... anybody wtf is up with that?
04 Cherokee Laredo, 95 Wrangler S
mailto:Jammy11b@Gmail.com\">mailto:Jammy11b@Gmail.com

jeepfan1974

#9
engine sludge and carbon build up due to lack of propper oil changes i would run engine some engine oil flush on the replacment engine once you get it running just in case    amsoil makes one that does an awesome job dont use any of the pcv system or vacume lines off the old engine without flushing them out first    seafoam works good for that
Let\'s go wheeling!

Mudviper

#10
Running engine flush can do more harm then good actually. It has the tendence to losen up old grease and dirt in the engine and clog oil passage ways and the oil pump. If you are going to use it, I would watch your engine operation very closely afterwards

Yager

#11
Holy crap, I need to clean all the vacuum lines and the pcv valve base in the valve cover? That sucks hard.. Seafoam? Okay. I will have to try that out. That just complicated things..

For the record, any residual sludge on my used parts wont react with fresh oil and cause it to sludge up again, like a virus, will it? I just run the risk of the existing sludge clogging the new engine, right?
04 Cherokee Laredo, 95 Wrangler S
mailto:Jammy11b@Gmail.com\">mailto:Jammy11b@Gmail.com

Mudviper

#12
I wouldn't worry to much about the vacuum lines to much. They really should be effected to much. Plus you can use your vacuum lines off the engine you are pulling. You can also buy vacuum lines and a PCV valve from the auto parts store quite cheap.

Yager

#13
Ah, I need some new vacuum lines anyway. Thanks.
04 Cherokee Laredo, 95 Wrangler S
mailto:Jammy11b@Gmail.com\">mailto:Jammy11b@Gmail.com

jeepfan1974

#14
Quote from: "Yager"Holy crap, I need to clean all the vacuum lines and the pcv valve base in the valve cover? That sucks hard.. Seafoam? Okay. I will have to try that out. That just complicated things..

For the record, any residual sludge on my used parts wont react with fresh oil and cause it to sludge up again, like a virus, will it? I just run the risk of the existing sludge clogging the new engine, right?
YUP!
Let\'s go wheeling!